Friday, April 11, 2008

you just brought home your new cat friend; now what? what you need to know about cats to be a real friend:



Congratulations! You are the proud new owner of a cat. No doubt you're looking forward to years of happy companionship. But what do you do now?

The first thing you should know about your new pet is that most cats hate to travel. After the ride home from the animal shelter, he will, most likely, not be in the mood for fun. For the trip home, confine your pet in a sturdy cat carrier. Don't leave him loose in your car where he might panic and cause an accident.

To make his transition to your household as comfortable as possible, select a quiet, closed-in area such as your bedroom or a small room away from the main foot traffic, and provide him with a litter box. Let your new pet become acquainted with that limited area for the first few days. Let him sniff all your belongings and investigate all the hiding places. Over a few days, slowly introduce him to the rest of your house, including the other pets and household members. It will take a little while, but he will eventually begin to feel at home.

Cats vary in terms of how demanding they are as pets, so let yours guide you to the level of attention he wants, whether it's your hand for petting or your lap for sitting. Provide him with the necessary creature comforts and give him the companionship he seeks, and he will be content.

The following is a mini-primer of cats' requirements for a happy life:

Cleanliness. Your new cat will prize a clean environment and a clean body. Cats are naturally fastidious and most will instinctively use a litter box; for some, you may need to place the cat in the box and make little scratching motions with their front paws so they get the idea. Many place such a premium on cleanliness that you should clean the box daily or several times a week. Cats also value privacy, so place the litter box in a convenient but secluded spot.

Most cats will spend hours grooming themselves, but even the most avid groomer can use a little help from time to time. Nail clipping and ear and teeth cleaning are tasks you can do to keep your cat well groomed. Even short-haired cats benefit from weekly brushing, a task that can be pleasurable for both of you.

Security. Provide your cat with safety and security. Always use a cat carrier when transporting your pet. Protect him by making certain that all windows are securely screened, and that the washer and dryer are kept closed and are inspected before each use. Get into the habit of ensuring that drawers, closets, and cupboards are uninhabited before you close them. And for your own security, put a collar and tag on your feline—there's always the chance he may slip outside by mistake, and you want to make sure he can be identified as your pet.

Health Care. Animal shelters take in animals with widely varying backgrounds, some of whom have not been previously vaccinated. Despite the best efforts of shelter workers, viruses can spread and may occasionally go home with adopted animals. If you already have dogs or cats at home, make sure they are up-to-date on their shots—including feline leukemia—and in good general health before introducing your new cat.

Take your new cat to the veterinarian within a week after adoption. There, he will receive a health check and any needed vaccinations. If your cat has not been spayed or neutered, make that appointment! There are already far too many unwanted kittens and cats; don't let your new pet add to the problem. Most likely, the shelter will require that you have your pet spayed or neutered anyway. If you need more information about why it is important to spay or neuter your cat, read our online information on spaying and neutering.

House Rules. Provide your cat with some "basic training" to help him get along in your home. It's true that cats usually have their own ideas about how to do things. Even so, most cats can be taught to obey simple rules like not scratching the couch, eating plants, or jumping up on the kitchen counter. With repeated, gentle, and consistent training, your cat will learn.

Yelling at your cat never works. Instead, positively reward him and provide him with alternative choices. A good scratching post—coupled with the handy squirt gun filled with water—can save your couch, your chair, and your nerves. If you help your cat understand the rules and give him a satisfying outlet for his scratching impulses, there will be no need to have him declawed, an unnecessary operation no cat should endure.

Room for Fun. Finally, provide your cat with an interesting indoor environment. Cats love to play and will appreciate simple and inexpensive toys. Ping-Pong balls and paper bags can provide hours of fun. A comfortable perch by a window can become your cat's very own entertainment and relaxation center.

Toys are very important for cats. They not only fight boredom, they also give cats a chance to express their prey-chasing drives. If you're the one moving the toy while your cat chases after it, playtime can be a bonding experience for both of you.

Enjoy Your Rewards. Now that you've made certain all the basic provisions are attended to, you can relax and enjoy your new pet. It may take a couple of weeks for him to adjust to life with you. But before you know it, you'll be curled up on the couch together, watching TV like old pals, and you won't remember what life was like without him.

cat fleas--what you need to know as a cat lover


Cat Fleas are a very common problem and most cats will become infected at least once during their lifetime. It's nothing to be ashamed of, it doesn't mean you have a dirty house. In fact we have had to deal with a flea problem at least once with every cat we have ever owned. Cats can pick up these little parasites from a variety of sources at any time of the year, the main ones being:

Other cats and dogs they come in contact with.
Hedgehogs and rabbits found during their nocturnal garden wanderings.
Second hand furniture may also harbour some unwanted fleas as they can survive quite some time without being anywhere near a cat.
Why you should control fleas!
There are several reasons to make sure your pet is flea free as well as the fact that you don't want to pass cat fleas onto anyone else.
The specific cat flea carries the larva of the tapeworm, which can then get inside your cat whilst they are grooming themselves. They can also carry a number of other nasty infections, which you would rather not be passed onto your furry friend.

Adult fleas feed on your cats blood, so small cats or kittens are prone to anaemia.

Some cats can be allergic to the cat flea bite. Our cat Mo was and it was terrible to see her scratch herself almost to bleeding and running around the room frantically trying to get away from the discomfort she was obviously in. We took her to the vets straight away for treatment.

Does your cat have fleas?
So how can you tell if your pet does have cat fleas? well the first sign is usually noticing your cat repeatedly scratching and being a little edgy and dashing around the room suddenly. If you see any of these symptoms the best thing to do is to buy a special flea comb and stand your cat on paper while you gentle comb through their fur. A couple of fleas may get caught in the comb but you are more likely to find flea droppings. They are black in colour and when squashed will contain little amounts of blood. Yuk!
Getting Rid Of The Critters
Once you know for sure that your cat does have fleas it is your responsibility to provide good cat care by making sure that you eradicate them for good.
Firstly, you will have to treat the cat fleas on your cat. There are a number of powders and sprays available for you to choose from, but look out for ones that say they kill fleas quickly. Follow the manufactures guidelines, but usually it will involve you combing through your cats fur whilst applying the products. The neck area is where fleas are usually worse; so pay special attention to this area being careful not to get any products into their eyes or ears.

Secondly, you will have to treat your home, especially areas where your cat spends a lot of time. If you do not do this your cat will become re infected and a vicious circle will begin.

Wash your cats bedding thoroughly.
Vacuum every room
Use special sprays and powders designed to kill fleas in the home on both your floors and furniture.
You may have to repeat this process several times over a period of weeks to make sure you have killed any dormant flea eggs.

bringing up baby: what you need to know to meet your kitten's vital needs


Providing good kitten care will help to ensure that your new bundle of fur will grow up to be a confident, healthy cat. It can all be very exciting having your first kitten, but it does come with a responsibility to play an active role in their upbringing. However it is a fine line between spoiling them and giving them the confidence to interact in the human world. Too much spoiling and cosseting and the kitten may grow up not possessing the skills to look after themselves properly.



Kitten care during the first seven weeks.
Kittens are born without having any sense of fear, which is great news for us humans, as we want the kitten to see us as their friends and not as a big scary giant. These first few weeks are a vital time to socialise the kitten to humans. Without this contact during this time a cat may never become accustomed to people and so become feral cats. It is very rare for a feral cat to become truly domesticated. My sister homed a feral kitten, he was older than seven weeks and so even though he lived in a domestic situation from that young age he never really got on with people. In fact the only person able to go near him was my sister, everyone else would end up covered in scratches.
This seven-week window is known as the “sensitive period”, where experiences during this time will effect and mould the sort of cat they will become. During this time it is important that:

The kitten is handled by at least 4 different people of all genders and ages.

They are introduced to other family pets, especially if there are dogs in the family.

Be exposed to lots of different noises and family activities, like the washing machine, Hoover, television etc.
The more experiences introduced during this “sensitive period” the better and it is a very important step in providing good kitten care. As the kitten has no fear during this time they will explore and get used to all the sounds, smells and different types of creatures in their world. Kkittens that do not receive these experiences will often grow into very shy scared cats that like to keep them selves to themselves. It is very difficult to change this behaviour in later life.
NOTE: When re-homing a kitten from a shelter or from a breeder it is important to find out as much as you can about their upbringing so far. Kittens that have not been properly socialised will need far more of your attention and even then they may never become easy pets to live with.

Early Lessons
Most cats are excellent mothers and will teach her new brood all the catty things they need to know but as an owner we must stand by to give her a helping hand or to reinforce certain lessons. This type of kitten care can often be overlooked as we think that the mother cat will teach them everything they need to know, but without our intervention, sometimes things can go a little awry. The mother cat will teach her kittens about hunting, play, toilet training and which food to eat, your role in helping with these lessons are:
When the kittens are ready to move on to solid food (around four weeks), provide cat food especially formulated for kittens and also offer them lots of different flavours. This way they will be less fussy eaters when they grow up.

Kittens will start to use a litter tray around five weeks old. Provide soft litter, which will be easy to dig and will not hurt paws and put them off. Also make sure that the litter tray is easily accessible for a kitten to get into. If they have only positive experiences of using the litter tray during this time it will avoid any toileting issues later on.

Play pouncing and hunting games with your kitten but never let them play with your hands. This could develop into a learned behaviour and although it doesn’t hurt now when they are kittens, it certainly will when they are fully grown. It will be very difficult to reverse this behaviour later on in life and by not encouraging this type of play now will avoid problems in the future.
Kitten care, not punishment.
It is very tempting for kitten and cat owners to punish their pets when they do something wrong, just like we would our children. However cats do not have the same understanding of punishment. They do not automatically associate a punishment with a certain misdemeanour; instead they will associate it with the person. So instead of providing a positive outcome i.e. stop chewing the chair for example, you are creating a negative one between your cat and yourself. This can lead to aggression towards you and even avoidance, which in some extreme cases could result in the cat going off to find new owners.
So from an early age it is important to practice these rules and teach your furry youngster the right and wrong way to behave.

Reward good behaviour always with a positive experience, something that your particular cat really enjoys, it could be:

A treat
A game
A cuddle etc.


Reward bad behaviour with a negative experience by taking something away that your cat enjoys. The most powerful of which is the removal of attention. So:

Stop playing the game immediately
Walk away from the kitten, preferably out of the room.
Remain silent
Have no eye contact with the kitten
The cat will perceive this as a bad experience and will not want to repeat it.

Final words on kitten care
It is easy for us to look after a kitten nutritionally and medically these days, as everything is so accessible. Special kitten food can be bought from every supermarket and our local vets can carry out vaccinations and neutering relatively cheaply and easily. But too often the important kitten care of socialisation and early training experiences are overlooked and this when done correctly from the beginning will prevent many future behavioural problems and will ensure that you have a happy contented confident cat who will bring many benefits to the family for many years.

Your aging cat: what changes will I notice in my older kitty?

Geriatric Cats--the most loveable of all cats!




As a cat grows older, just like us, there will start to be signs that they are not as they used to be. For instance:

Physically - As they get older, they become susceptible to things like arthritis and general wear and tear on the old bones. This will make it difficult for them to get around as much as they used to and for a cat this can be very disabling. Especially as jumping and climbing is one of their main activities.


Behaviour - A senior cat, just like with us humans, may also degenerate mentally, causing symptoms similar to Alzheimer's disease or just changes in their normal behaviour that you may find strange.

As with any change in behaviour it is always important to rule out any other illness that may cause similar symptoms and so must be checked out by a Vet. But if the cat is pronounced healthy then general old age is the culprit. Vets call it cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS).

Symptoms
You may notice that your senior cat starts to display some of these symptoms:

Excessive Meowing - this is more pronounced at nighttime and is generally put down to the fact that the cat may have become confused and is not sure of where they are. This can be very distressing for both the cat and the owner.
Try putting your cat into a separate room at night and play some soft quiet music, which may help to calm them, and feel more secure.

Pacing - Old cats may start to pace around in circles or just wander from room to room. Again this can be put down to confusion.
Try distracting them with string games or just some gentle stroking.

Change in behaviour towards you and other pets - This behaviour can go either way from behaving as if they don't know you and running away from your attentions to becoming over clingy and obsessive about being with you. Some cat owners have noticed that their senior cat may start to rub themselves excessively around other pets whereas before they would stay clear.
Sleeping habits - Old cats can also experience changes to their usual sleeping routines. This can mean that they either begin to sleep more and become less active generally or can be awake all night, pacing and meowing.
Litter Tray habits - A senior cat may begin to urinate outside their litter tray where before they always used it. Although this may be a sign of CDS it may also mean that they are finding it physically difficult to use the tray or that it may be painful to urinate and they associate the tray with the pain.
Appetite - As a cat grows older their sense of smell may deteriorate thus causing the cat not to want to eat their usual food. Also they will start to drink less water, unfortunately drinking less can add to their CDS symptoms.
How can you help your senior cat?
Firstly be sympathetic, they are old and it may not be their fault that they have urinated outside their litter tray. Treat them as you would an elderly relative and make allowances for them. Here are a few things to help make your senior cats life as comfortable as possible:

Feed fresh canned food as this has the strongest aroma, at regular intervals through out the day. Remember to only feed a little amount at a time to prevent over eating and the food going stale in the dish.
Change the brand of food regularly to stimulate the cat's appetite.
A little hot water can be added to food to increase the aroma.
Provide plenty of fresh water around the home for your senior cat.
Provide easy to climb into litter trays and perhaps provide extra ones around the home, so that the forgetful moggy easily finds them.
Place bedding on the floor or in easily accessible places. Some cats may even require ramps to help them get around the home.
Extra games - to help your cat's mental alertness play gentle batting games with a ball or a feather. It doesn't have to be too energetic just enough to keep them interested and alert.
Close off areas of your home that may cause the old cat injury. Stairs in particular will be difficult to climb with stiff joints and your cat may find itself stranded half way up.

Feline Leukemia Virus FeLV FAQs -- some valuable answers and information


The purpose of this FAQ is to answer frequently asked questions about the Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV). The Feline Leukemia Virus is a virus which suppresses your cat's immune system. A cat that becomes infected with the virus becomes susceptible to many ailments or breakdowns in its system. The virus was somewhat inappropriately named because it is different than the disease Feline Leukemia. A cat that tests positive for the virus will not necessarily contract the disease Feline Leukemia. However, cats that do test positive for the virus are more likely to catch any one of a number of diseases including, but not limited to, leukemia, lymphoma or opportunistic infections. This FAQ is divided into two parts; the first consists of information every cat owner should know or should ask about the virus. The second part is information for people whose cats have tested positive for the virus.


PART I: General Information about FeLV
What is Feline Leukemia Virus and can I catch it?

Feline Leukemia Virus is a virus that is specific to cats only. It is considered to be the most common cause of serious illness and death in domestic cats. It causes a breakdown in your cat's immune system causing your cat to become susceptible to many diseases which it might otherwise be able to fight off. It CANNOT be transmitted to humans (including children) nor can it be transmitted to other species such as dogs. The National Cancer Institute and the National Institutes of Health have written a CancerNet Factsheet which is available via gopher. See the References section for more information on this.
I've heard FELV is like AIDS. Can I catch AIDS or anything else from it?


People often use the "it's like AIDS" phrase to describe a number of illnesses in the animal (and human) community with the idea that most people know so much about AIDS that this analogy is useful. Unfortunately most people don't know much about AIDS and the resulting effect is to scare people out of their wits and have them dump their cats or dogs at the nearest pound because they are so deathly afraid of AIDS. They are similar to AIDS in that they affect and weaken the body's immune system. The ONLY similarity between FeLV, FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) and FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis) is in their genetic makeup. All are RNA (as opposed to DNA) viruses, and FeLV and FIV are what are known as "retroviruses." FIP is a "coronavirus." (See the FIP FAQ for more information on this disease).
What is a retrovirus?


Retroviruses carry with them an enzyme that causes a process to occur in the DNA known as "reverse transcription." RNA normally pairs up with DNA, copies itself, and thus increases/replicates itself. When an RNA retrovirus does this, it fools the DNA to copy *it*, instead of the normal RNA, thus causing even more of the retrovirus to be created. So as long as a particular cell is affected with the retrovirus, that cell will be affected for its whole life. One would have to kill the cell before it reproduces to eliminate any chance of that cell making any more FeLV or FIV RNA. This is one of the reasons why it is so difficult to get rid of, because you must kill all the cells which contain the virus, and attempting to do this may either kill the animal itself, or it is simply impossible to tell which cells have the virus in the first place. Basically, a retrovirus is a parasite at the genetic level, a DNA-tapeworm, if you will.
How is it transmitted?


FeLV is transmitted via saliva, mucus, urine, feces and blood. This means mutual grooming and biting/fighting are the most likely methods of transmission, although sneezing, hissing, sharing food/water bowls and sharing litter boxes are also possible means of transmission.
Will I infect my healthy cat if I pet an FeLV+ cat, then pet my cat?


No. Not unless you were to go immediately from one cat to another, and have wet saliva, urine or blood on your hand. Even then the chances would be slim. FeLV needs to be transferred through the media above, and will not live long outside the host (the infected cat). Warm, dry environments will deactivate the virus and common household detergents and disinfectants will eliminate it from any contacted surfaces. If you wash your hands with soap after touching an infected cat, you will not infect an FeLV negative cat.
What does the virus do to a cat?


In sum, once the virus gains entry (usually via saliva or mucus membranes) it will reproduce in the lymph tissue which is your cat's first system of immune defense. Some cats are able to mount a successful immune response against it and defeat the virus at this stage. In cats who don't successfully destroy the virus here, the virus will then move into the bone marrow where red and white blood cells are produced. It may stay latent in the marrow for many years. After that it will attack other tissues, including possibly causing a breakdown in several stages of the immune response system.
Is there a vaccine?


Yes, there are several commercial vaccines available. Unfortunately the USDA does not have standard requirements for FeLV vaccines, so different manufacturers can publish 'Effectiveness Ratings' which cannot be compared with each other due to a lack of uniformity in testing terms and requirements. Estimating the effectiveness of the vaccines is difficult and most vets I've spoken with estimate them to have ~75-85% effectiveness (this means cats challenged with the virus will fight off infection 7-8 times out of ten). Published studies show that there are irreconcilable differences and bias in Effectiveness Ratings put out by the manufacturers so currently it is impossible to estimate the actual effectiveness of and between vaccines. Suffice it to say that your cat is MUCH better off trying to fight the virus having received the vaccine, but the vaccine is not 100% effective so you should not expose your cat to undue risks. (Note: NO vaccine, whether it be for cats, dogs or people, is 100% effective. Some are about close to being as fully effective as possible, however the FeLV vaccine is not one of them).

Since writing the first version of this FAQ, I've had a number of people tell me that a cat has only a 30% likelihood of catching the disease, and even then if only in persistent close contact. I have found nothing in the recent literature to support this claim, and every veterinarian I have spoken with states that the likelihood of becoming infected depends on the level of exposure, which vary in different locales and situations. Since most tests are done in controlled situations, it would be impossible to come up with true "real world" statistics. In one vet's words "But what if it is only 30%? Would you stop wearing seat belts if there was only a 30% chance of serious accidents if you commuted in a car every day? I hope the odds are far less than that ... and yet I still hope you are taking the appropriate safety cautions. Unless the vaccine has been proven to cause serious harm, it is a good precaution to take, regardless of the percent chance of disease transmission."
If I don't get my cat vaccinated, what are its natural defenses against the virus?


According to the literature, neonatal kittens are 100% susceptible to catching the virus from one exposure. 8-week-old weanlings are 85% susceptible from one exposure. There is serious debate over the likelihood of non-vaccinated, healthy adult cats becoming infected with the virus but it seems that ~40% of cats exposed become immune, ~30 percent become persistently infected (show acute signs of a related-disease) and ~30 percent become infected, but the virus is latent in their system. (Hardy, et al, 1980).
Is the vaccine expensive and how often do my cats need to be vaccinated?


After your cat has gone through its more elaborate set of kitten-shots, the FeLV vaccine should be given once a year. If you adopt an adult cat and don't know if it has been vaccinated for FeLV, start it immediately on its annual shots. If you are unsure if your adult cat needs be vaccinated, talk to your vet. Prices vary between vets, locally and nationally. I surveyed readers of rec.pets.cats and contacted vets around the country and found that prices for the vaccination alone cost between $9 and $30 dollars. The average was $18 (not including the vet-visit charge). It seems that the FeLV test costs about the same, but I didn't do a full-scale survey.
If I get my cat vaccinated, isn't there a chance that it will catch the virus from the vaccine?


No. As of July 1992, all of the vaccines which are approved for sale in the United States are incapable of causing a positive FeLV test result. (Sorry, but I don't have figures for vaccines in other countries. If anyone does, feel free to append them onto this FAQ.)
Is there any risk in getting my cats vaccinated?


There is always a risk that your cat may have a bad reaction to a vaccine, ANY vaccine. It is a good idea to wait in your vet's waiting room for 30 minutes after receiving a vaccination, ANY vaccination, to make sure your cat does not have an adverse reaction, and if it does the vets will be on hand to deal with the situation.

There is also some evidence that vaccinations in general may be the cause of tumors (known as postvaccinal sarcomas or fibrosarcomas). The chance of this happening is estimated to be approximately 1-2 in 10,000, but you should be aware of it nonetheless. This has not been limited to FeLV vaccines, in fact it was originally thought to pertain solely to rabies vaccines, but this is not thought to be the case any more. Since this form of cancer seems to have a high recurrence rate, and little is known about it, if you have *strictly* indoor-only cats, you may want to discuss with your vet if the risk of fibrosarcoma is greater than the risk of being exposed to FeLV if the cat gets out. This is an individual decision that will be different for each household. You should contact your vet immediately if you notice any lumps in the vaccine injection area.
Do I have to get my cats vaccinated?


No one can force you to vaccinate your pets, though there are laws in some areas regarding certain diseases like rabies. Check with your vet to see what vaccines are required in your area.
My cats are indoors-only. Why should I bother getting them vaccinated?


The answer to this question all boils down to a risk/benefit assessment.

If you live in a high-rise, do not plan on moving in the next year, and do not plan on exposing your cat to other cats (such as getting a new kitten, or temporarily housing a stray), then there is really no need to get the cat vaccinated. If it is somehow possible for your cat to make it to the outside world, whether it be because of a break-in, or a landlord who forgets to close the window they just fixed, or a visitor doesn't realize the cat is not allowed outside (all of which are real-life cases of people I know whose indoor-only cats have gotten outside) then your cat is at SOME risk. Many people who lived through Hurricane Andrew or the LA Earthquake can tell you that some of their indoors-only cats ended up on the street for days. Fortunately disasters like these are infrequent, but the point is accidents can happen. In the few hours or days that your cat is outside it could come in contact with an infected cat, and it is better to give your cat that 75-85% boost to its natural resistance.

But, some people feel the risk of adverse reaction and possible fibrosarcomas from vaccinating are not worth the risk if the cat is not likely to go be exposed to FeLV+ cats, even if it did get outside for a short period. What YOU as the cat's owner (not your vet, not your cat's breeder, not your friend of a friend who knows a lot about cats, and not someone who wrote something you read on the internet) must decide is how much risk is there for your cat getting out and being exposed, and is that risk worth the other risks associated with the vaccine?
My cat is a purebred, and I've heard the vaccine should not be given to purebreds. The breeder I bought the cat from discourages getting the vaccine.


This is a touchy subject because there is often the general feeling among vets that many breeders don't know what they are doing, and the feeling among breeders that vets don't know much about purebreds. There is probably a little bit of truth to both sides. It is true that some breeders may think they understand veterinary medicine better than they really do, and unfortunately rely on word-of-mouth advice of other breeders rather than vets (eg: "Jane Smith has been breeding for 15 years and she knows a lot so if she doesn't like this vaccine, it must be bad"). But it is also true that most vets do not deal specifically with purebred issues. There is no course in vet school called "Purebreds 101" and vets are often just as guilty as anyone in misidentifying mixed breeds as purebreds, of being too quick to diagnose a "breed specific" illness with less data than if they would if the cat were not a purebred, or of not being aware of conditions which may affect one breed more than another.

Keep in mind that some veterinarians are also breeders, or work within the CFA, TICA, ACFA (AKC for dogs) or other purebred registries, and these vets are most likely going to be more knowledgeable about conditions which are more common to certain breeds. Also remember that not all purebreds are the same, each breed is different and has its own characteristics. Just like you can't say "don't vaccinate Europeans for smallpox," because there are *many* different cultural and ethnic groups in Europe.

The immune system of purebred cats has NEVER been tested to determine if it is different than that of mixed breed cats. It is impossible to state one way or another if the purebred immune system, because of inbreeding, has any reason to adversely react to vaccines that are tested on a largely mixed-breed cat population. Some people feel there is a significant difference between the two based on antecdotal evidence and won't vaccinate for that reason, and some people feel this is nonsense.

But that doesn't answer the question because this one is going to have to be answered by you and your own gut feeling. Who do you trust more with the combined necessary knowledge of vaccines, as well as about your purebred? Talk to your breeder and see if s/he is aware of the vet literature, or is repeating word-of-mouth arguments. Many of them are well aware, many read the literature more than vets do, so don't be afraid to ask them why they hold the opinions they do. Talk to your vet and ask how familiar they are with your partiuclar breed of cat as well as purebreds in general. Get a feel for both. Keep in mind that many breeders do not vaccinate their own breeding cats because FeLV vaccines can cause miscarriages and stillbirths, or it may just be cheaper for the breeder to test their cattery every year and every cat that comes into the cattery rather than to vaccinate, especially as cats from a cattery are less likely to escape to the outside world (remember the risk/benefit assessment above). Make sure you find out exactly why the breeder does not recommend the vaccine as it may very well be that the breeder has had numerous negative experiences with the vaccine in his/her particular line of cats, and that your cat may be genetically predisposed to have a bad reaction. If this is the case, you should still discuss the matter with your vet, and it may be best not to get the vaccine.
My cat gets sick after it gets vaccinations. Why should I put my cat through that?


Some cats do have bad reactions to vaccines. However, it is better to have a cat sick for one day per year from being vaccinated than to have it die a miserable death from an FeLV-related disease. If your cat has a bad reaction to a shot, ANY shot, and the reaction lasts more than 12-24 hours, you should immediately bring your cat to the vet. Even if your cat has a mild reaction, you should at least discuss the matter to see what are the best options for next year's vaccinations. It may be best to spread your cat's annual vaccinations out over a few months, or have them all administered at once. If your cat has had a *very* bad reaction, it very well may be best to discontinue vaccinating for FeLV. Definitely discuss this with your vet.
I already have a cat(s) and I found another which I want to bring home. What precautions should I take regarding FeLV (and other diseases)?


This depends on the environment the new cat comes from. If it is a stray, or from a shelter which does not routinely test for the viruses (make sure you ask this of any shelter you visit), or from a household where you have reason to doubt the person has had the cat tested/vaccinated, then keep the new cat separated from yours until you can have a vet examine it for many things. Keep it in a separate room and provide its own food dish, water bowl and litter. DO NOT let your cats share any of these things, or share the same space, until your vet checks out the new one. If it is a stray cat, it may never have been vaccinated against FeLV and Rabies, or if it was a housecat it may be past its time for an update and have been exposed. Cats which have been on the street may also have fleas, tapeworm, ringworm or other parasites which are transmittable to you and your pets.

One of the most unfortunate situations that occurs far too often is when someone, out of the kindness of their heart, takes in a stray or unwanted cat -- either permanently or in the hopes of finding it another home. This is often done spur-of-the-moment, and unfortunately sometimes has dire consequences. If you find a cat in a bad situation and you want to help it, keep it isolated or ask your vet to board it until all the test results have returned. It is never worth the lives of your current pets in an attempt to save another.
How is FeLV detected?


Your vet will do a blood test; there are two types of blood tests which can be performed. Some vets will automatically do one of the tests before vaccinating your cat to make sure it is not already positive for the virus. The first (ELISA test) is where the vet takes some of your cat's blood, mixes it with a chemical and watches for a color change. If the blood changes color then your cat has tested positive for the virus. False positives are not uncommon in this form of test, so if your cat tests positive it may be a good idea to have it retested. "Light positives" are where the treated blood only changes color slightly. This means your cat is infected with the virus, but the virus is not very active in its system. The second type (IFA test) involves sending the blood sample to a special lab. This lab tests to see if the virus is being produced in the bone marrow. If this second test is positive, it is unlikely that your cat will ever test negative. Below is a flow chart (from a lecture by Dr. William Hardy, U of Penn. Vet School) which depicts what you should do if your cat tests positive on the ELISA test:


If positive:


whether healthy or sick, confirm by Indirect Fluorescent Antibody test (IFA)

If negative:


if healthy and not exposed to a positive cat then no need to retest
if healthy but exposed to a positive cat then retest in 3 months because the healthy cat may be incubating the virus.
if sick then confirm the ELISA test with an IFA test
So some cats who test positive can later test negative?


Yes. If you have a cat which tests positive on the ELISA test, you should immediately have an IFA test done. If it tests negative on the IFA test, you should have your cat retested with the ELISA test in 3 months. If a cat does not test negative again in roughly three months, chances are it will always test positive. Vets and virologists have devised an entire classification scheme of the different types of infected cats (transiently infected, persistently infected, etc.) based on the ELISA and IFA tests. It can be very confusing and if you are interested in learning the details you should consult with your vet regarding your particular cat's status.
Is it possible for a cat to test negative when it really is positive?


Unfortunately, yes. Although false negatives are not very common, they do occur, especially if you are dealing with a young kitten. Sometimes the cat has been recently exposed to FeLV, so the antibodies have not yet had enough time to build up enough of a response to appear on the test. To be absolutely sure a cat is not FeLV+ you should test it twice, a few weeks apart (the cat should remain isolated from other cats during this period, too, otherwise there is little point in doing a second test). The likelihood of getting a false negative is increased depending on the nature of the test. The ELISA test will show more false negatives than the IFA test. Some mail-order catalogues now offer FeLV testing kits using saliva or tears as the medium. These are more likely to trigger a false response than the ELISA test which uses blood. Fortunately, the false negative rate on the ELISA test (which is what most vet offices use for standard FeLV tests) is low enough that most people don't bother with the second test.
How long does a cat who tests positive have to live?


There is no set time period for how long an FeLV+ cat will live. One person on the internet said they had a cat which lived for 20 years with the virus, while others have given dates as long as 10 or 12 years, although these are probably extremes. I have not found any truly long-term studies to document, but it seems that of the studies done, 83% of FeLV+ cats do not live beyond 4 years. (Hardy, et al 1980). All cats which do not later test negative, but in all other ways are healthy, are carriers for the virus. Even though they do not have acute symptoms, they can still spread the virus to cats which are not infected. Often people do not have their cat tested for the presence of FeLV until the cat is noticeably sick, and by this time the FeLV-related disease may have progressed too far for the cat to recover.
What are symptoms for which I should be on the lookout?


Unfortunately, since FeLV is a retrovirus that attacks your cat's immune system, your cat can become ill from many things as a result. This makes looking for a 'sure sign' very difficult. Often the immune system is weak so your cat will become chronically infected with certain conditions such as stomatitis, gingivitis, oral ulcers, abscesses and non-healing wounds of the skin, upper respiratory infections or FIP. Some cats whose digestive tracts are affected have been described as staring at their food bowl seemingly unable to remember how to eat, or their breathing will be very difficult and loud. Basically, whenever your cat shows chronic, peculiar and/or unhealthy behavior, take it to a vet to be examined.
My cat recently passed away from FeLV. How long should I wait before getting another cat and are there any special precautions I should take?


Well, your own grief issues aside, from a medical point of view you do not need to wait very long. The virus is fragile outside the host, and I know of one vet who has even stated that it would be safe the next day. Personally, I would wait a week at least. You should definitely discard the litter box and food/water bowls, or else clean both well with household detergents or a 1:32 bleach solution.


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PART II: If your cat has tested positive
Some of these points are mentioned in the general section above, but here are more specific questions geared to people whose cats have tested positive. The most important point to stress is that FeLV+ cats *MUST* be made indoors-only. This needs to be done for two reasons. First, the more you expose your cat to outside ills, the more likely it is to contract an FeLV-related disease or infection. The second reason is that FeLV+ cats are like Typhoid-Marys to any other cat they meet. As noted above, the vaccine is only 75-85% effective, so any vaccinated cat that your cat encounters is at risk, as well as any unvaccinated cat. If these cats are then infected and they continue to interact and infect other cats, then you could give rise to an epidemic in your area. If you cannot or will not keep your FeLV+ cat indoors, than the only humane thing to do is find a home for it with someone who will (ways to do this are suggested below), or have your cat put to sleep. This may sound extreme, but it is extremely selfish to allow your cat to roam the neighborhood possibly infecting all the local outdoor cats just because you refuse to keep your cat indoors. Keeping your cat indoors is one of the responsibilities of owning an FeLV+ cat.
My cat has tested positive. Should it be put to sleep?


The mere fact of testing positive is not enough to merit putting a cat to sleep, although there may be other significant factors involved which do make putting the cat to sleep the best option. There are vets who recommend putting all FeLV+ cats to sleep. If your vet recommends this and you feel comfortable with that decision, then that is the best solution. Sometimes putting an FeLV+ cat to sleep is the best option for the cat, especially if it has acute symptoms and is in pain. This is never an easy decision and one which should not be taken lightly. If you do not feel you are capable of emotionally dealing with having an FeLV+ cat (or cannot keep the cat indoors), but do not want to put the cat to sleep, there are other alternatives which are discussed below. The one thing you should not do is ignore the virus. If your cat has tested positive, then you have a responsibility to take some action. FELINE LEUKEMIA VIRUS WILL NOT GO AWAY IF YOU JUST IGNORE IT!
What will happen to my cat now that it has tested positive?


Because there are so many different ways to respond to the presence of the virus, it is impossible to predict exactly what will happen (and when it will happen) to your cat. I've noticed that any 5 vets you ask will give you 5 different answers to this question. The scientists who experiment and publish on the disease are also in disagreement. I have presented two different (published) viewpoints below. According to Hardy, et al (1980), (and these people seem to be the authorities on the disease) roughly half of all cats who test positive (and do not test negative again within a three month period) are persistently infected and show acute signs of FeLV-related diseases. The other half are latently infected and are in all other aspects 'healthy' although they are still carriers. 17% of all cats which test positive (and do not later test negative) will live past 4 years. The next point of view is taken from a much more recent article and has radically different statistics. According to Loar (1993), of cats which test positive for the disease only 5% will immediately become infected with an FeLV-related disease. The other 95% will enter the latent phase which will last for months to years. These 95% are still carriers for the disease and can infect other cats.
Although my cat has tested positive, it is healthy in all other respects. How can I prevent an FeLV-related disease from becoming active in its system?


There is no sure way to keep your cat healthy. Eventually, an FeLV-related disease will probably develop no matter what you do. However, one way in which a disease is likely to develop is if you stress your cat's system. If a cat's system is stressed, its body can't put as much energy into fighting off illnesses (just like you always seem to get sick during exams or when you have to make a presentation to your boss). "When all my cat does is eat and sleep 20 hours a day, how can it possibly be stressed?" you may ask. Anything which is upsetting or unpleasant for your cat may stress it, such as going for very long periods without food or water, overcrowding, movement to new territory, territorial conflicts, sending your cat to be boarded for long periods of time, or pregnancy and lactation. (Of course one should NEVER breed a FeLV+ queen as it will expose not only the tom, but all the kittens will be FeLV+. There is also an indication, although no proof, that FeLV causes abortions in queens. For the same reasons, neither should FeLV+ toms be bred.) Basically, keep in mind things which you have noticed in the past that seriously upset your cat. These are things which are more likely to lower your cat's natural immune system and give a disease the chance to attack.
I have an FeLV+ kitten that I have decided to keep. Should I have it neutered/spayed?


I've only encountered one case of a vet recommending not to spay a kitten because it was FeLV+. Unfortunately, going into repeated heat cycles was very stressful on her, and that owner believes it caused her to suffer ill effects of the disease sooner than she may have otherwise (of course there is no proof to this). It is true that there is a small added risk to anesthetizing an FeLV+ cat, but that risk will well worth the alternatives. Especially since a whole cat will have a very strong desire to roam, thus further spreading the disease. In my personal experience, my vet did a very careful screening to make sure my FeLV+ cat could handle the anesthesia before operating. It really should not be much of a problem, but always make sure if your cat needs surgery that you remind the vet and staff that your cat is FeLV+.
Should I continue to vaccinate my cat if it is FeLV+?


The literature recommends against continued FeLV vaccinations. Other feline vaccinations (panleukopenia, rabies, etc.) should be continued.
I have had several cats for a long time. One of them recently tested positive, but the others have not. Do I need to get rid of the FeLV+ one?


This is a tough situation, for which there is no pat answer. You should discuss the matter with your vet. One vet I spoke with felt that chances are the other cats have already been exposed and it is probably best to just keep them up on their vaccinations and not change the household drastically. One study (Barlough, 1984) says that in a survey of 45 households from which FeLV+ cats were removed, 99.5% of the FeLV- cats remained negative. However households in which the FeLV+ cats were not removed had infection rates 40 times greater. It is probably best to remove the infected cat if it can be sent to a good home without causing too much disruption in your household, and your mental psyche.
I have an FeLV+ cat and I want to find it a playmate. What should I do?


There a few options. The only thing which you really ought NOT to do is get a healthy cat as a playmate or let your cat outside for excitement. Dogs cannot become infected with the Feline Leukemia Virus, and some dogs and cats, especially those raised together can be very close. One word of warning: getting a dog (or any pet) for the sole reason of keeping a cat company is not a good idea. If you consider getting a dog, make sure you understand the amount of time and responsibility that goes into caring for a dog (which is much more than that of a cat); otherwise you will regret the decision and both you and the dog will suffer. (There are excellent dog FAQs which will give you as much information on the matter as you can handle).

Another option is getting a second FeLV+ cat. The obvious down side is that you not only have twice the vet bills, but you also put yourself at risk for twice the heart-ache when one or both become ill. However, if you are willing to take the risk you can search for FeLV+ cats by putting an ad in the newspaper and calling all your local vets and animal shelters and explaining your situation. They may put you on a list and should they receive any cats which test positive, they may give you a call. Make sure you give your current vet as a reference as most shelters and other vets will want to make sure you understand the responsibility of owning an FeLV+ cat or to make sure that you are not some psychopath looking for sick kitty-cats to do nasty things to (of course most people, especially your relatives, will think you are a psychopath anyway, for keeping and seeking out more FeLV+ cats).
I have an FeLV+ cat that is otherwise healthy, I do not want to put it to sleep, but I can't keep it. What can I do?


Similar to the above answer, place ads in the newspaper and contact your local shelters and vets and tell them you have an FeLV+ cat which you are willing to give to a good home. A good home is someone with another FeLV+ cat, or someone who does not have any other cats and will keep the cat indoors. Also, there are animal shelters which specifically take in FeLV+ cats. Again, contact your local vets and shelters to see if they are aware of any such haven to which you could send your cat. Almost all regular shelters will put to sleep any cat they receive which tests positive because the virus is so contagious. If you are going to do this, however, you should understand that is it unlikely that you will get instant results. If you expect to find a new home for an FeLV+ cat within a few days of making inquiries, you can pretty much forget it. Be prepared to hold on to the cat for a few weeks at least, while searching for a new home.

If you choose to put an ad in the paper you MUST take the responsibility of making sure the people who express interest in your cat are doing so for legitimate reasons. You should interview them in person and check references if possible. There are people who will lie to get cats to feed to other pets, to sell to labs or to abuse. Think about this as you interview each potential candidate.


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References


CancerNet Factsheet is available via gopher to gopher.nih.gov following the menu path Health and Clinical Information/CancerNet Information/Fact Sheets from the NCI/Risk Factors and Possible Causes. Or you can call the Cancer Information Service toll free at 1-800-422-6237 (1-800-4-CANCER).
Hardy, William D., Essex, Myron, and McClelland, Alexander J. (eds). Feline Leukemia Virus. Elsevier/North-Holland, Inc. New York, 1980.
Loar, Andrew S. "Feline Leukemia Virus: immunization and prevention" in Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice. 23(1):193-211, 1993.
Barlough, J.E. "Seriodiagnostic aids and management practice for retrovirus and coronavirus infections" in Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice 14(5):955-969, 1984.
Olsen, R.G. et al "Oncogenic viruses of domestic animals: in Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice 16(6):1129-1144, 1986.

Additional Readings
Hardy, W.D. Jr, et al. "Biology for Feline Leukemia Virus in the natural environment" in Cancer Res. 36:582, 1976.
McClleland, A.J. et al. "Prognosis of healthy Feline Leukemia Virus infected cats" in Rev. Cancer Res. 4:121, 1980.
Rojko, J.L., and Hardy, W.D. Jr. "Feline Leukemia Virus and other retroviruses" in The Cat: Diseases and Clinical Management, NY: Churchill Livingston, 1989.
Rojko J.L. et al. "Reactiviation of latent Feline Leukemia Virus infection" in Nature (Lond.) 198:385, 1982.
Also, the Journal of the Am. Vet. Med. Association, 199(10), Nov. 15, 1991 is devoted entirely to feline viral diseases.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP); some frequently asked questions and answers for cat lovers


The purpose of this FAQ is to answer frequently asked questions about Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), which is one of the most difficult diseases in the feline community today. This FAQ is divided into two parts, the first is general information about the disease, and the second is about management of FIP in a multi-cat and cattery environment. The sources for this FAQ are listed at the end, as well as some additional recommended readings. Recently an excellent source of information on FIP has become available on the WWW as well. This article is much more technical and many cat owners may find it much more dense than this FAQ.

Disclaimer:

I want to point out first and foremost that I am not a veterinarian, nor even a person who has training in animal science such as a veterinary technician. I am a graduate student of physical anthropology, and an ailurophile. My goal with these FAQs is to take information from the medical literature and convey the parts that are most useful to the average cat owner and translate them into general terms that are easy to understand. I attempted to keep the FAQ as untechnical as possible, but unfortunately with such a complex disease that becomes very difficult. I hope this prooves to be of some usefulness. Also keep in mind that this disease is one of the most controversial subjects in feline health care. This is not a definitive guide to FIP, but only an attempt to compile the most current information. Ideally the reader of this FAQ should use this as a starting point when discussing FIP with their veterinarian. Vets and breeders will hold a wide variety of opinions on this disease, some of which may be based on current information, some of which may be based on hearsay and anecdotal evidence. You can only do your best to become as educated as possible and make your decisions on the course of treatment or preventive care. Always remember, your cats is YOUR responsibility, and no one, not your vet, not a breeder, not a friend-who-knows-everything-there-is-to-know-about-cats, nor the writer of an internet FAQ can force you do take an action that you don't feel comfortable with. Do what you think is best for your cat. Period.


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Summary
To begin and unfortunately in sum: There is NO effective treatment, there is NO diagnostic test, there is NO way to positively identify asymptomatic carriers (cats which shed the virus, but do not themselves show outward signs of illness), the incubation time is UNKNOWN, NO one is 100% sure of how it is spread between cats, and there is NO proven effective way to control its spread in a multi-cat household or cattery. So what is known? Read on.


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PART I: General Information about FIP
I've heard FIP is like AIDS. Can I catch AIDS or anything else from it?


People often use the "it's like AIDS" phrase to describe a number of illnesses in the animal (and human) community with the idea that most people know so much about AIDS that this analogy is useful. Unfortunately most people don't know much about AIDS and the resulting effect is to scare people out of their wits and have them dump their cats or dogs at the nearest pound because they are so deathly afraid of catching AIDS from them. The ONLY similarity between FIP, FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) and FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus) to HIV (which is believed to cause AIDS) is in their genetic makeup. All are RNA (as opposed to DNA) viruses, and FeLV and FIV (and HIV) are what are known as "retroviruses." FIP is a type of "coronavirus" which makes it even less similar to HIV. To make it clear: THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO WAY TO CATCH AIDS FROM A CAT, NO MATTER WHAT FELINE DISEASE THAT ANIMAL MAY HAVE. See the FeLV FAQ for more information on retroviruses.

So what *is* FIP?


FIP is not caused by a retrovirus but by a type of coronavirus. One of the reasons FIP is such a problem for vets is because there may be no way to differentiate an FIP virus from certain other viruses. Current thinking is that FIP is caused by a mutation of the Feline Enteric Coronavirus (FECV). FECV is very common, and an FECV infection can have symptoms ranging from none, to flu-like with or without diarrhea. These are most common in kittens, but can occur in cats of any age. If the immune system is not functioning properly, a mutant FECV can become a more systemic infection that we call FIP. All FIP tests appear to react the same way to every type of coronavirus. So, if your cat had FECV as a kitten, it may cause the same reaction in the current test as true FIP (more on the tests below).
For the purpose of this FAQ, however, I am going to continue referring to an "FIP Virus" or "FIPV." Just keep in mind that in fact, there may not be a difference between FIPV and FECV per se, just a difference in the way a cat's immune system responds.

What are the symptoms of FIP?


FIP usually appears in one of two forms: Effusive (wet) and Non-Effusive (dry). It should not be thought, however, that there are two different FIP diseases. The results of the infection are a continuum on a scale, with the 'wet version' being one end, the 'dry version' being in the middle, and a 'carrier' being the other end (a carrier is where the cat has successfully fought off the disease but may still be able to expose other cats to the virus). The way this happens is when a cat is exposed to FIPV, if its immune system gives a poor response, the wet form will develop. If it gives a better response, the dry form will develop. In the best responses, the cat will not develop either form of FIP, although it may be a carrier of the FIP virus.

Wet
The wet form is more common, and more rapid in progression than the dry form. It is characterized by the abdomen and/or chest progressively but painlessly distending with fluid. If this occurs in the chest, respiratory distress can occur due to compression of the lungs and release of fluid into the airways. The lining of the affected cavity will be covered with white, fibrin-containing areas (fibrin is a protein that is the center of a blood clot), often on the liver and spleen. Certain types of lymph nodes may be enlarged. Other signs include jaundice; mild anemia; and gastrointestinal, ocular (e.g. eye ulcers or severe conjunctivitis), and neurological signs may also occur.

Dry
The dry form is more rare (but appears to be becoming more common), and more slow in progression, often making diagnosis difficult. There is minimal fluid build-up, although weight loss, depression, anemia, and fever are almost always present. Signs of kidney failure, liver failure, pancreatic disease, neurologic disease or ocular disease may be seen in various combinations. Often the organs in question develop a characteristic pyogranulomatous inflammation (this is a chronic inflammation resulting in a thickening of the tissue and local accumulation of white blood cells). Unfortunately biopsy of these lesions is the only definitive way to diagnose this form of FIP and is usually done in the form of a post-mortem diagnosis.
What are the differences between FIP and FECV?


FIP is a disease. Normally the disease/virus relationship is simple, but this is not the case with FIP. FIP may be caused by many things, perhaps an isolated FIP virus (FIPV), perhaps a mutation of FECV, or perhaps there are multiples viruses which can all lead the the same disease complex known as FIP. There is little question, however, that the most common cause of FIP is via FECV.

For the most part, FECV is limited largely to the intestines and is dealt with quite well by the cat's immune system. However, as recent studies seem to indicate, FECV can mutate into FIP and, if the cat's immune system is not operating properly, this mutant FECV stops being just an infection of the intestine and becomes the more systemic infection we call FIP.

Thus, wherever you have FECV you could have FIP! Some cats never get FIP, but can continue to shed the FECV virus (now thought to be spread via the feces). The good news, however, is that since it seems that the dry form is becoming more prevalent, that cats are gradually becoming more able to resist FIP infection in general.
Is my cat at high risk?


If it comes in regular contact with other cats (i.e.: an indoor/outdoor cat), the answer is YES! The lowest risk groups are indoor only, single-cat households. The higher the number of cats, the more risk of FIP. The higher the number of cats, the higher the titer test results (more on titers below). Single-cat households are generally free of all coronaviruses. FIP occurs in greatest incidence in cats between six months and two years old, although infections are high up to five years old. Of course the most susceptible group to catching FIPV are kittens because under the age of 16 weeks their immune system is very bad in general. Studies also show that poor nutrition, high stress levels or poor husbandry increase the likelihood of getting FIP. Outside exposure, exchanging of animals, especially kittens and young cats, highly inbred cats, and cats in actively breeding households increase the risk. Males and females are equally affected.
How is it transmitted?


Wouldn't we all like to know! Seriously, there seems to be two schools of thought. One group (from Cornell-based publications and seminars) states that the spread is not known with certainty, but is believed to be by ingestion or inhalation of the virus. The other school of thought (from Dr. Pedersen and the UC, Davis based publications) believes that transmission is most prevalent when cats have close contact with other infected cats or their feces/urine. Both schools seem to feel that feces may play a large role in the method of transmission.

Some studies suggest that viruses that can cause FIP can survive on dry surfaces (food/water bowls, litter boxes, human clothing, etc.) and can survive at room temperature probably up to 2 or 3 weeks. If this is the case, then the two schools of thought on methods of transmission may not be so far apart, especially given that litter can contain dust to which small particles of feces can adhere. Thus the virus can possibly be spread via litter dust on shoes or clothing or etc. making it behave as if it were an airborne virus!
If the virus can last so long on dry surfaces, what happens if I unknowingly come in contact with a cat with FIP? Can I give it to my cats?


Most household soaps, detergents and disinfecting agents will kill the virus. Make sure you wash any part thoroughly that has come in contact with the cat (don't forget your pants if the cat rubbed up against you). Bleach in a 1:32 solution is suggested for decontamination purposes.
Is there a test?


There is a test which will look for the presence of coronavirus antibodies in your cat's blood. If your cat has been exposed to a coronavirus, ANY coronavirus, its immune system will build up antibodies to it, and the titer tests for the level of those antibodies in the blood. But it does not distinguish between antibodies made specifically against FIP, or FECV, or any other coronavirus. A positive titer means only that your cat has created antibodies (therefore been exposed to) SOME form of coronavirus. The higher the titer, the more antibodies the cat has created.

As if there were not enough problems with the coronavirus test, there is no uniformity between different labs. One cannot compare results from one lab to another. Some labs just specify positive or negative if the results are above or below a given titer (often these labs do not even specify the titer). There are no standards for setting up a lab, there is no regulatory body that oversees them, and no requirement for validation of test results. It is also possible for a cat which has received the vaccine (more below) to have enough antibodies to appear on the titer test. To top it all off, false positives occur in up to 30% of the tests. In sum: DO NOT PLACE MUCH CREDENCE IN THE TITER TEST, AND UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD A CAT BE EUTHANIZED BASED SOLELY ON THE RESULTS OF THE TITER TEST.

There are some clinical indicators which your vet may discuss with you if s/he suspects that a cat has FIP, particularly if it is showing likely symptoms. Some blood tests can help your vet pinpoint FIP as a cause for your cat's condition, this includes looking for a high amount of gamma globulin proteins and a low amount of albumin proteins in the blood.

There has also been talk of a polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test, in the hopes that it can tell the difference between FIP and other coronaviruses. Significant scientific studies have yet to be concluded on this method. However, given that the most common way of a cat coming down with FIP is via the mutation of FECV, this test may have little or no value in the great majority of cases.
What about the vaccine?


There is a vaccine available, but it is controversial and some vets do not recommend it, although others highly encourage it. The manufacturer's tests state that it has an efficacy rate (protection rate in this case) of 69%. Cornell Feline Health Center then did a study which said the vaccine failed to show any protection, and that it accelerated the disease in 52.5% of exposed cats. However, this study used a different challenge virus strain and the route of administration was different than the manufacturer's tests. The 'real-life' significance of this has not yet been determined, neither Cornell nor the manufacture has received reports from the field of abnormally high numbers of cats which get the disease as a result of the vaccine. However, this study has caused a lot of people to swear-off the vaccine.

It really is between an individual cat owner and their vet to determine the whether or not to vaccinate based on the best information available at the time.
So are these the only test results?


Well, Cornell concluded from the above that vaccine efficacy in a laboratory setting is highly dependent on the challenge. It offers protection at low challenge doses, none at higher doses. The problem is, no one knows what the "real world" dose level is.
Another problem is that there are actually two strains of FIPV. Just as there are many different flu strains or cold strains which cause you to get sick several different times with the flu or a cold, because each time you catch a different strain for which you aren't already immune. Type I strain of FIP is believed to be the most prevalent in the "real world" but it is the most difficult to reproduce in a laboratory. Type II is easier to reproduce, but not as prevalent outside. It is not known how effective a vaccine against one type will be against the other type.

So, while some of the studies have found the current vaccine effective against the Type II strain of FIP, there is no evidence either way as to if it will work against the Type I strain.

So that is Cornell's opinion, are there any other points of view?


The consensus arrived at the seminar sponsored by the Winn Foundation on FIP/FECV is that the enhanced disease effect is a laboratory phenomenon, especially since that study by Cornell only used seropositive cats in the first place.
What is a seropositive cat?


Some cats test positive on the coronavirus titer test, some do not. Those which have never been exposed to ANY form of coronavirus are called "seronegative." Those which have been exposed to some form of coronavirus are called "seropositive." The Winn Foundation-sponsored research felt the Cornell study was flawed because it used cats which had already been exposed to some form of coronavirus (were "seropositive") and then attempted to test the vaccine.

This is not to be confused with the terms "FIP negative" and "FIP positive" which are used by many labs to indicate that the coronavirus titer is less than (negative) or more than (positive) some predefined threshold level.
Have there been any more recent studies?


Yes. In another, recent study cats were tested in the same manner as in the vaccine manufacturer's tests. At the end of an 8-week period, 30% of cats vaccinated, and 60% of the controls demonstrated FIP-positive conditions from tissue examinations. This demonstrates a 50% "preventable percentage."

Another recent field trial ran for 16 months using 500 cats in a no-kill shelter with endemic FIP. The fact that this is a shelter makes it a different makeup than a cattery (and some multi-cat households) because the average age of a cat was approximately 2 years old, and there were no kittens under 16 weeks old. However ALL cats tested were seronegative prior to exposure in the shelter. During the time of the study, 0.8% of the vaccinated cats died and 3.25% of controls died of FIP. [This is statistically significant at p=.048, which means that there is a 95.2% probability that this result is not random] So, for seronegative cats over the age of 16 weeks, this study shows a 75% efficacy rate. Vaccination after exposure (after a cat is already seropositive) is not likely to be helpful in preventing the disease.
So what does this all mean?


In sum, if you know your cats are seronegative, and they are older than 16 weeks, the vaccine is recommended by both the Cornell Feline Health Center and the consensus reached at the Winn Foundation sponsored FIP/FECV seminar. If your cat is already seropositive, there is not much evidence that the vaccine will help.
The vaccine will be more of a help when

the manufacturers demonstrate its effectiveness against the Type I strain of FIP
it is shown to be effective in seropositive cats, and
it could be shown to be safe and effective for kittens under the age of 16 weeks.
However, it appears that there is work being done to develop a FECV vaccine. Preventing FECV infections in the first place, and thus preventing FECV from mutating into FIP, might turn out to be another technique in trying to protect against FIP.

My vet believes that my cat has FIP, what is the best thing to do?


Usually by the time the vet is able to pinpoint FIP as the cause of your cat's condition, the cat is pretty far along. So long as your cat is in pretty good shape, not in any pain or discomfort, there is no reason to euthanize it. Even if your cat is happy and healthy, however, you MUST make sure you keep it indoors and away from other cats. If you feel that this will be too great a compromise on its quality of life, it is better to euthanize it. Since the cause of transmission is not known, by allowing your FIP+ cat outside, you could cause numerous other cats to become ill, and even further spread the disease. But please keep your cat's welfare foremost in your mind. When its systems begin to fail, when it is in obvious discomfort, you are only making things worse by delaying the inevitable. Keep him or her as happy and as comfortable for as long as possible, that is unfortunately the only solution at this point.


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PART II: Multi-Cat Household/Cattery Management
I have a lot of cats, what can I do to keep the risk of FIP down?


Limit the number of new cats and isolate each for at least one month, preferably two. I know it sounds like a long period of time, but consider the alternatives! You could lose every cat in your household. During the one month's time period, make sure you watch carefully for signs of illness. You should give the coronavirus titer test at the beginning and the end of the quarantine period, and the titer should decrease over that time period.

Scoop the litter box daily, discard the rest of the litter weekly and disinfect the boxes with a 1:32 solution of bleach. The area around the boxes should be swept and disinfected, there should be at least one box for every two cats in the household. Again, weekly discarding of the scoopable litter may seem like a waste, but so far the ONLY thing the sources agree upon with regard to transmission is that it is definitely transmitted through the feces, if nothing else. In the words of one breeder: "It cost me approximately $3,000 in veterinary and laboratory services to diagnose the incidence of FIP in my cattery, test and retest (and retest) all of my cats. Believe me it is FAR less expensive to discard the litter" (Polli, p. 81). If your cats have long hair and fecal matter tends to stick to the britches, this hair should be kept clipped short.

Change food and water daily, disinfect the bowls weekly. Do not mix the bowls all around the house, keep the same set of bowls with the same cats, and keep the same set of litter boxes with the same cats.
What if one of my cats if pregnant?


It is suggested that queens be completely isolated from other cats (isolated in its own room, not its own cage within a room). This room should be empty for one week prior to placing the queen there, and should be disinfected with a 1:32 solution of bleach. The queen should be placed in the isolation room 10-14 days prior to delivery. All bowls and litter boxes should be used exclusively for that room, and not interchanged with any others. You should disinfect your hands when entering and leaving the isolation room. If possible, you should even try to have separate clothing, such as a smock and slippers which are restricted to the isolation room to decrease risk.

If the queen is not seronegative, you may want to consider an early weaning program. The queen should be removed from the kittens at age 4-6 weeks and never returned. During the first 4-6 weeks of a kitten's life, it gets its antibodies from their mother, therefore they are immune to anything she may be shedding. After that time period, they start making their own antibodies. If the queen is a carrier of coronaviruses, she can shed FECV to the kittens, and they are most likely to become infected during that time period. Regardless of whether the kittens are weaned early and isolated from the mother, they should be kept isolated from all other cats in the household. In addition to minimizing the risk of the kittens developing FIP, the risk of exposure to other viruses and diseases will be reduced.

Kittens should be raised in complete isolation from the queen and all other cats/kittens in the household until they leave the cattery. If the kitten is to be kept in the cattery, it should be isolated for 16 weeks, and then the FIP vaccination series should be completed before allowing the kittens to interact with the other cats.
Is there any evidence for this?


A 1992 study found the following: 400 kittens were divided into 41 household with various FIP histories. In one group the kittens were allowed to freely associate with all the cats. In a second group the kittens were isolated only with their mother. In the third group, the kittens were isolated by themselves starting at age 2-6 weeks. Only in this last group did all of the kittens remain seronegative for any/all coronaviruses.
That sounds absolutely ridiculous! Who would go through all that?


Nobody says a breeder HAS to do any of this. These are merely the precautions currently recommended by the Cornell Feline Health Center and the recommendations which came out of the Winn Foundation sponsored Seminar on FIP/FECV. It is an option kitten buyers can use in determining which breeder to select if they so choose, but it is by no mean mandatory.


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References:


Polli, Leigh. "Highlights from The Winn Feline Foundation International FIP/FECV Workshop." Cat Fanciers Almanac, 11(8), December 1994.
Richards, James R. DVM. "Management of Coronavirus Infections in Catteries and Multicat Households." Comprehensive Seminar for Cat Breeders Cornell University School of Continuing Education and Summer Sessions.
Siegal, Mordecai (ed.) Cornell Book of Cats: Comprehensive Medical Reference for Every Cat and Kitten. New York: Villard Books, 1991.
Additional Readings:


Addie, D.D. and Jarret, O. "A Study of Naturally Occuring Feline Coronavirus Infections in Kittens." Vet Record Feb. 15, 1992.
Barlough, J. E. and Stoddart, C.A. "Feline Infections Peritonitis." Cornell Feline Health Center Information Bulletin 6, 8/84.
Olsen, C, and Scott, F.W. "Feline Peritonitis Vaccination - Past and Present." Feline Health Record Topics for Veterinarians 6(20), Spring 1991.
Scott, F.W., Corapi, W.V., and Olsen, C.W. "Evaluation of the Safety and Efficacy of Primucell FIP Vaccine." Perspectives on Cats, Fall 1992
Richards, J.R. "FIP: The Challenge Continues." Cat Fancy 36(5): May 1993.
Papers in Feline Practice Volume 23, Number 3. May/June 1995


Addie D.D., Jarett O. Control of Feline Coronavirus Infections in Breeding Catteries by Serotesting, Isolation, and Early Weaning. Feline Practice 23(3), 92-95, 1995.
Addie D.D., Toth S., Murray G.D., Jarett O. The Risk of Typical and Antibody Ehhanced Feline Infectious Peritonitis Among Cats From Feline Coronavirus Endemic Households. Feline Practice 23(3), 24-26, 1995.
Fehr D., Holznagel L., Bolla S., Lutz H., Hauser B., Herrewegh A.A.P.M., Horzinek M.C. Evaluation of the Safety and Efficacy of a Modified Live FIPV Vaccine Under Field Conditions. Feline Practice 23(3), 83-88, 1995.
Gerber J.D. Overview of the Development of a Modified Live Temperature- Sensitive FIP Virus Vaccine. Feline Practice 23(3), 62-66, 1995.
Herrewegh A.A.P.M., Egberink H.F., Horzinek M.C., Rottier P.J.M., de Groot R.J. Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR) for the Diagnosis of Naturally Occurring Feline Coronavirus Infections. Feline Practice 23(3), 56-60, 1995.
Hickman A., Morris J.G., Rogers Q.R., Pedersen N.C. Eliniation of Feline Coronavirus Infection From a Large Experimental Specific Pathogen-Free Cat Breeding Colony by Serologic Testing and Isolation. Feline Practice 23(3), 96-102, 1995.
Horzinek M.C., Herrewegh A., de Groot R.J. Persepectives on Feline Coronavirus Evolution. Feline Practice 23(3), 34-39, 1995.
Hoskins J.D., Taylor H.W., Lomax T.L. Independent Evaluation of a Modified Live Feline Infectious Peritonitis Vaccine Under Experimental Conditions (Louisiana Experience). Feline Practice 23(3), 72-73, 1995.
Hoskins J.D., Henk W.G., Storz J., Kearney M.T. The Potential Use of a Modified Live FIPV Vaccine to Prevent Experimental FECV Infection. Feline Practice 23(3), 89-90, 1995.
Kass P.H., Dent T. The Epidemiology of Feline Infectious Peritonitis in Catteries. Feline Practice 23(3), 27-32, 1995.
McArdle F., Tennant B., Bennett M., Kelly D.F., Gaskell C.J., Gaskell R.M. Independent Evaluation of a Modified Live FIPV Vaccine Under Experimental Conditions (University of Liverpool Experience) Feline Practice 23(3), 67-71, 1995.
Pedersen N.C. An Overview of Feline Enteric Coronavirus and Infectious Peritonitis Virus Infections. Feline Practice 23(3), 7-20, 1995.
Pedersen N.C. The History and Interpretation of Feline Coronavirus Serology. Feline Practice 23(3), 46-51, 1995.
Pedersen N.C., Addie D., Wolf A. Recommendations From Working Groups of the International Feline Enteric Coronavirus and Feline Infectious Peritonitis Workshop. Feline Practice 23(3), 108-111, 1995.
Postorino Reeves N. Vaccination Against Naturally Occurring FIP in a Single Large Cat Shelter. Feline Practice 23(3), 81-82, 1995.
Richards J.R. Problems in the Interpretation of Feline Coronavirus Serology (Specificity vs. Sensitivity of Test Procedures). Feline Practice 23(3), 52-55, 1995.
Scott F.W., Corapi W.V., Olsen C.W. Independent Evaluation of a Modified Live FIPV Vaccine Under Experimental Conditions (Cornell Experience). Feline Practice 23(3), 74-76, 1995.
Scott F.W., Olsen C.W., Corapi W.V. Antibody-Dependent Enhancement of Feline Infectious Peritonitis Virus Infection. Feline Practice 23(3), 77-80, 1995.
Vennema H., Poland A., Hawkins K.F., Pedersen N.C. A Comparison of the Genomes of FECVs and FIPVs and What They Tell Us About the Relationships Between Feline Coronaviruses and their Evolution. Feline Practice 23(3), 40-44, 1995.
Weiss R.C. Treatment of Feline Infectious Peritonitis With Immunomodulating Agents and Antiviral Drugs: A Review. Feline Practice 23(3), 103-106, 1995.
Wolf J. The Impact of Feline Infectious Peritonitis on Catteries. Feline Practice 23(3), 21-23, 1995.

allergic? our feline friends can make our allergies worse!


Keeping a cat can trigger allergic reactions in more than a quarter of the population, scientists have discovered. British scientists found cats could cause breathing difficulties in people with some of the most common allergies.

The team from Imperial College, London, took samples from the mattresses of almost 2,000 European volunteers with common allergies, including dust mites and timothy grass. They found those exposed to cat allergen had a greater respiratory sensitivity and were more likely to cough and wheeze.

"This was an unexpected finding," said Dr Chinn, lead author of the study at Imperial College.

"Our study suggests that all allergenic individuals have signs of asthmatic responses if exposed to cat allergen, even if blood tests show they are not allergic to cats."

The increased symptoms suggest that a reduced exposure to cats may be beneficial to those with allergies, regardless of what their specific allergy is, the researchers said. However, they added more research would be needed.

"People need to be aware that cats are a problem for more people than we realised," said Dr Chinn.

"If they're thinking of getting a pet and a cat is just one of their options, they might want to pause before choosing."

The report is in this month's issue of the American Journal of Respiratory and Critical Care Medicine, published by the American Thoracic Society.

my cat is clawing the carpets to pieces; what can I do about it?


The first thing you have to consider is why your cat is doing it.

If the scratching is done in just one or two places then it is probable that your cat is 'conditioning' and exercising their claws.

These types of cats haven't managed to transfer their behaviour onto outdoor objects, such as trees.

Treatment aims at directing their behaviour back to where it should be done. Various scratching posts are available, but don't buy or make one that is covered with fabric or carpet. This will just confuse your cat!

Place the scratching surface in front of the affected areas and once the cat has begun to use the new object, it can be moved to a more convenient location. If you want to get your cat scratching outdoors, then try putting some tree bark on the carpet where it is being destroyed.

One of the most important factors is to make sure the scratching post is the correct height. The cats will need to stretch themselves fully to exercise their claws properly.

Remember punishment will never be effective in situations like this and may even make the situation worse.

As regards catnip, this will probably not help your cat with adjusting to a scratching post. Cats that do react to catnip do so immediately they smell the plant, (Nepetacataria) and the reaction can last between five and fifteen minutes.

The cats will first smell, then lick, and then chew in an increasingly frantic manner. Many cats will roll over, and some leap to the air in excitement. Some enter a trance-like state and can stare into space, some will chase an imaginary prey.

It is thought that these cats are in a truly psychedelic state, but the effects of catnip are short-lived, quite harmless and non-addictive.

why does my cat cry at night and what can I do about it?


First of all, I am assuming that your cat is neutered, as cats can be very vocal indeed when they are in season. If your cat has not been neutered, then the first thing to do is to make an appointment with your cat's vet to discuss arranging for your cat to be neutered.

However, cats are much more vocal than dogs, and much of their vocal sounds are those that bring individuals closer together, as they are a social species.

These meows are usually greeting calls spoken in friendly interactions with cats or other species such as dogs and people. In addition, some overattached cats will follow their owners, perhaps crying regularly to attract their attention.

I would suggest that first of all you take your cat for a check up to the vet's as there are other things that can cause the symptoms your describe, such as some pain. In addition, it might be worthwhile chatting with the vet about whether seeing a pet behaviourist would help your cat.

You can also think about whether your cat gets enough attention, or if there is not enough activity or mental stimulation.

If this is relevant, think about organising regular schedules play times with your cat, where you initiate play, petting, grooming or food treats, such as small pieces of cheese, cooked chicken or shrimp, when your cat is quiet or behaving in the way that pleases you. Make sure your vet OK's these food additions and reward desirable behaviours and ignore those that are undesirable.

Remember that this ignoring behaviour means that you don't have eye, touch or voice contact with your cat. The condition may also get worse before it gets better, and you need to be consistent. In these situations, the main reason for failure is often the owner!

my cat is a very fussy eater; what can I do?


First of all you need to find out why her choice of food has altered recently. It may be that she has a problem with her teeth, although that usually makes a cat reluctant to eat hard foods.

I would suggest that you make an appointment for your cat to see a vet, who will be able to check your cat over. They will also be able to advise you about the amount and type of food your cat is eating, and whether it is OK to carry on with the diet your cat obviously prefers.

The vet will be able to advise you as to whether it is worthwhile taking all the time and trouble getting your cat to change her diet at all!

As long the vet rules out any medical problem, it may simply be a dominance problem. Quite often cats like this have learnt that by refusing to eat they can force their owner into giving them a tastier snack.

The situation is the same as a child who refuses to eat anything other than pizzas, and the treatment is the same, too! You must stand your ground and remain firm.

Insisting that your cat changes her diet may be met with indignation, but you should persevere, knowing that you are doing the best for your cat.

Start off by mixing a little of any selected new food with the old, and alter this ratio over time. This allows your cat's digestive system to adjust to the new food as well as letting your cat to get used to the taste of the new food.

Don't expect your cat to take to the new diet immediately - it will take quite a long time.

With cats, food is generally best left there at all times, as they tend to be much better at regulating their appetite. However, the amount on offer should be measured out at the beginning of the day. This is to guard against obesity in those cats that are not so good at regulating their appetites or where high palatability overrides their fullness.

It may also be a good idea in a greedy cat to have the measured food divided up into two or more meals.

I would also suggest that you write to Pet Food manufacturers about the best diet for your cat's life stage. They can provide you with lots of information that you might find useful.

how to tame a feral cat: what every cat lover needs to know for their own personal safety as well as the wild cat's


various motivators, such as:

* Fear
* Anxiety
* Frustration
* Misdirection of their hunting instinct


First of all, you need to identify what are the relevant triggers to this aggressive behaviour, and see what you can do to alleviate the situation.

Fear related

Cats need to learn how to appreciate human company, and when this has not been tackled when a cat was young, there can be problems in adulthood. With fear related aggression, this happens in the presence of a real or perceived threat.

It may be that your mother's new cat had a previous traumatic experience with a female who resembles you in the past. In the early stages of this type of aggression, the affected cat will try and flee or hide. Gradually the cat will adopt an aggressive strategy. The response of the person involved is significant, and often an attempt to reassure the affected cat reinforces the fear. Punishing may also add to the cat's fear.

You have to think about what is triggering your mother's cat's aggression if this is the type of behaviour she is exhibiting. You can then gradually try and desensitise your mother's cat to the trigger.

For example, if you find that your mother's cat reacts when you enter a room, see if you can get your mother to reassure her cat when you stand outside the room, and reward calm behaviour. When your mother's cat remain calm, then gradually get closer. This desensitisation can take quite some time.

Frustration related

This is usually directed towards familiar people, and is often associated with situations where the cat does not get the reward it expects. This type of cat likes human company, but becomes noticeably aggressive in certain situations. In these cases it is best to think about the behaviour of the owner, and to avoid confrontational interactions. The owner may also, as may be the case with your mother's cat, inadvertently reward inappropriate behaviour.

The cat may see aggression as a way to get a treat or attention. It is better to reward appropriate behaviour, and to avoid aggressive confrontation.

Misdirected predatory

This usually began as a form of play when the cat was a kitten, and involves aspects of stalking, chasing etc and is often directed towards targets that are showing rapid movement. In these cases it is better to re-direct the predation towards a suitable toy

Aggression associated with human interaction These cats are usually described as being friendly, yet unpredictable. Often the cat initiates contact with the person, and then will suddenly bite and attack. This is also called petting and biting syndrome.

This type of behaviour can be induced in most cats; what varies is when they change from accepting the attention to reacting in a hostile way. This change period is called their tolerance threshold.

One explanation of this behaviour is a link with the cat's past and there is a connection with a cat's early handling experience and the final tolerance threshold for human contact.

Cats that have been handled from an early age and are used to being nursed have a high threshold and rarely show aggression. Those that didn't have a lot of human contact early on and have been handled less often in adulthood will show an aggressive response within a few minutes of being picked up.

It's also been thought that there may be an association with these sudden attacks and a past unpleasant experience, such as someone stroking the cat gently before suddenly grabbing it and holding it down. As a result, the cat looks at a friendly hand as a possible threat and the fear of being grabbed overwhelms the need to be cuddled. This is why smacking her will have no effect, and can possibly make the situation worse.

Another theory is that it is rooted in mutual grooming behaviour between cats. A mother cat will spend a lot of her time grooming her kittens, and the human hand is thought to evoke memories of the mother's tongue. At first the cat views the petting like maternal grooming, but reach a point where they revert to being an adult cat and feel suddenly vulnerable and trapped. The cat then views the hand movement as a threatening paw from another cat.

Treatment involves raising this tolerance threshold. The process is very slow, so that a cat with this problem doesn't get overwhelmed. Start by fussing your mother's cat without even picking her up so that she will be free to back off if she feels threatened. Once she accepts this readily, you can start putting her on your lap. Stroke her gently, concentrating on the back and head, avoiding the stomach and the legs, as these are more sensitive. Make sure she can escape if she wants to. Gradually increase the time spent petting her, but never restrain her forcibly as this will reduce the tolerance threshold and undo all of the work you will have already done!

It might also be a good idea to take your mother¿s cat along to the vet's. Sometimes illness or pain can induce aggression, and your mother's cat may benefit from treatment tailored to a medical condition if this is the case. In addition, the vet may feel that a referral to a pet psychologist may be useful.